TWELVE MINUTES READ
My daughter, Sarah, and I recently spent eight unforgettable days in Taiwan—filled with food adventures, cultural surprises, and the joy of reconnecting with Jolin, who has become more like family than a former host student.
I must point out here that Taiwan is such a small country in area, but it’s full of big country things. Enormous cities full of skyscrapers, and millions of people; high speed trains; metro stations; Taipei 101, the world’s tallest building from 2004 to 2009 and a heap of other things. It’s hard to imagine that Taiwan is a country only a tenth the size of Tasmania, with a population of 23 million. That equates to the entire population of Australia. Very impressive.
First Stop – Taichung
We arrived on Friday morning, 27 April. The distance between Australia and Taiwan wasn’t too excruciating – despite the overnight flight. Fortunately, we were able to check in early at our hotel, the Innk Hotel. (Innk is not a typo.)
Our heads hit the pillows for a few hours before Jolin came to meet us, her bubbly personality instantly erasing any feelings of tiredness.
That evening, we walked to the local market, the Fengjia Night Market for dinner—our first taste of Taiwan’s vibrant street food culture. The colours, aromas, and energy were intoxicating. Even in our sleep-deprived state, we could feel the excitement of the days ahead.
Jolin took on the role of our personal tour guide. She explained the different dishes – and there were heaps. Sarah and I bravely tried everything Jolin recommended, only baulking at the slimy chicken feet skin, and the stinky tofu.
Day Two – Taichung
Saturday began with a gentle walk along the river, just a short distance from our hotel. Like all good travel days, it took an unexpected turn when we stumbled upon a cosy café—Louisa’s Coffee. The coffee was a good brew that set the tone for many more to come.
Jolin picked us up mid-morning and introduced us to a traditional Taiwanese breakfast. The food was totally amazing. Shame I can’t remember what the dishes were – we had so many. From there, we explored the stunning Taichung National Theatre, a masterpiece of modern architecture, followed by a spot of shopping where Sarah found a beautiful necklace and Jolin couldn’t resist a pair of earrings.
Of course, no visit to Taiwan would be complete without bubble tea, and Jolin assured us, we were sampling some of the best Taichung had to offer. Sweet, refreshing, and endless options such as 30, 50, or 90 percent sugar; regular ice, or a lot of ice; hot or cold. Something like that. Check out the link below for more information!
Later, we visited the Tung Hai Arts Street, full of handmade treasures, youthful creativity and strange animals manning stalls. For dinner, we headed to a restaurant on the bottom floor of an apartment building connected to Jolin’s family. Over a delicious Asian dinner, we shared stories and laughter. The lack of a common language between the older generation was no barrier to the connectedness we all felt.
After dinner, Jolin’s parents, Win and Jackie, gave us a personal tour of the complex—complete with a movie theatre, pools, gyms, beauty salons, and what felt like an endless row of Feraris tucked away in the underground car park. On the rooftop, a panoramic view of the whole city twinkling under the night sky felt like a glimpse of the whole world.
Day Three- Taichung
Sunday was another beautifully planned, sunny day. After another stop at Louisa’s, Jolin picked us up early and took us to a 7-Eleven—no ordinary convenience store in Taiwan, but a treasure trove of fascinating food options. We gathered a picnic breakfast: tea eggs, soft buns, apple milk and other treats, which we enjoyed in the surroundings of theTunghai University (THU).
We wandered through the campus and visited the Luce Memorial Chapel, a stunning church designed by I.M.Pei who also designed the Louvre pyramid. There was no missing it. The construction reminded me of a giant inverted boat rising towards the sky.
A short walk from the church led us to the Tunghai University Experimental Farm where heaps of Holstein-Friesian cows with their patchy black and white coats were lazing in the sun. A diary shop is also located on the campus, so naturally we had to try the ice cream. We gave it a 10/10 for deliciousness.
The Man who Saved a Village
Our last stop before we said goodbye to Jolin was the Rainbow Village. The whole village was saved by Huang Yung-Fu after being threatened by the government for demolition to make way for re-development in Taichung. After painting his own home, he painted murals of animals, people and characters on the remaining eleven homes turning it into a famous tourist attraction.
On our last night in Taichung, Sarah and I headed back to where we started, the Fenjila night market near our hotel. This time we managed to wander through the maze of stalls with a lot of more knowledge about the food, thanks to Jolin. We happily devoured crispy crumbed chicken, sweet potato balls, fried vegetables, spicy corn cobs, and glossy candied fruit.
Day Four – Sun Moon Lake
On Monday, we said goodbye to Taichung and made our way to Sun Moon Lake. The journey itself was an adventure, combining high-speed rail and bus travel, followed by an Uber ride through windy roads and forests to our accommodation.
Arriving around lunchtime, we were immediately struck by the lake’s beauty. Nestled amongst mountains, it felt like stepping into a painting. Our room on the seventh floor virtually sat on the lake with floor to ceiling windows on two sides overlooking the panorama of the lake and its bird life. We couldn’t have asked for a more peaceful setting.
We spent the afternoon wandering through nearby market stalls, sampling snacks and soaking in the atmosphere. After finding a 7 Eleven store, we managed to get a supply of tea eggs before heading back to our room to enjoy the amazing view.
Day Five – Sun Moon Lake
Tuesday was filled with activity. Sarah began the day with a run, while I prepared myself for another breakfast adventure—one that proved… memorable. Between the unusual porridge, spicy accompaniments, steamed vegetables, and raw salad ingredients – not what a couple of Aussie gals are used to for breakfast – we decided to keep things simple. Just toast and sachets of jam.
The highlight of the day was undoubtedly the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway (cable car ride). Gliding above the lake and surrounding forest was nothing short of spectacular—a moment of quiet awe suspended in the air. On the return trip, we were lucky enough to hop into a glass bottom cable car which allowed us to see the view beneath our feet.
We followed this with a leisurely boat trip, hopping on and off to explore temples, gardens, and lakeside villages.
Back in Sun Moon Lake, we sampled a few more local delicacies—millet doughnuts, pork belly bao (not quite to our taste), and a delightful self-serve ice cream that redeemed the culinary experiment!
Day Six – Sun Moon Lake
After a succession of beautiful spring days, the weather had turned by Wednesday. Rain poured steadily, as we made one last attempt at breakfast before visiting a nearby temple.
Wenwu Temple sits high in the hills above Sun Moon Lake, about a half-hour bus ride away. As we passed between the towering red lion statues guarding the entrance, we began our climb up the many stone steps. Along the way, the temple unfolds across several levels, each revealing halls and shrines to explore.
Despite the rain, we pressed on—and it was well worth it. The mist only added to the beauty, of the already stunning views. At the top, the gardens offered a peaceful space to wander, a quiet reward after the climb.
Later that day, we checked out and travelled on to Taipei, Taiwan’s bustling capital.
Our accommodation was a beautiful older style hotel – the Evergreen Laurel Hotel. We saved the best ’til last! We didn’t arrive until after dark but luckily, it wasn’t far from the station. After checking in to our room on the ninth floor, we headed downstairs to the dining area where congee, an Asian rice savoury porridge is served to guests every evening until it runs out. It was a delicious blend of rice, abalone and chicken.
Day Seven– Taipei: Shifen and Juifen
On our first morning in Taipei, we wandered around Daan Forest Park. Masses of hydrangeas were in bloom in soft blues, purples and pinks. Tall trees stretched overhead, alive with the sound of birdlife. A lily pond sat at the heart of it all, reflecting the greenery around it, where nesting birds and turtles had made their homes. Incredible to think, that this peaceful haven is surrounded by a huge bustling city.
After wandering around the park, we had a delicious lunch of steamed dumplings before heading to our next destination.
Shifen and Juifen
An organised bus tour took us into the lush mountains of northern Taiwan. It didn’t take long to feel like we’d stepped into another world. The charming towns of Jiufen and Shifen offered us a magical glimpse into Taiwan’s rich history and natural beauty.
About ten minutes from Shifen, our bus stopped at Shifen Waterfall. It was getting dark and threatening to rain, making it hard at first to take in the waterfall’s full beauty. But something about the experience felt deeply moving.
We heard it before we saw it—the distant roar of water tumbling down—growing louder with every step we took. When we arrived at the viewing platform, a beautiful turquoise lake offered a peaceful contrast to the waterfall’s powerful energy. It was another one of those surreal moments, and there were plenty of them during our holiday in Taiwan.
In Shifen, we found ourselves standing along old railway tracks that run right through the heart of the village. Trains from another era still pass through, a reminder of the town’s coal mining past.
Visitors gathered along the tracks, choosing colourful sky lanterns and carefully writing their hopes and wishes onto the delicate paper. We watched as, one by one, the lanterns were released into the sky. They drifted slowly upward, glowing softly against the fading light.
It felt incredibly special to witness such a significant cultural tradition—like countless personal dreams rising together, However, Sarah and I decided not to do it due to concerns about the potential harm to the environment. A couple of goody goodies?!?
Wandering the Laneways of Jiufen
From there, we travelled on to Jiufen, a town once bustling with gold miners. Today, its narrow laneways are full of tourists and probably quite a few locals as well.
We wandered through winding streets lined with teahouses and traditional food stalls. The aroma of local street food drifted through the air, mingling with the faint scent of damp stone after the rain. It was atmospheric, almost dreamlike—lanterns glowing softly as people moved through the maze of alleys.
Day Eight – Taipei
It was a really cold morning, so we decided a lovely, warming massage might get us well prepared for the day. Sarah went for the full body oil massage. For me, it was a shoulder and neck treatment. For one hour, we had our bodies pummelled mercilessly by two very small local women, while they dug their tiny hands and thumbs into our soft Australian flesh.
We both wondered at what point should we scream stop. But as strong, brave Aussie gals, we let them continue until the ting of their timers told us it was over and we had survived it.
Elephant Mountain and Taipei 101
Our walk-up Elephant Mountain was a steep climb of brutal stone steps. I was sweating and panting about five minutes into the walk. As an experienced hiker, Sarah could’ve probably ran the whole way, but we paused frequently and admired the view. On reaching the lookout, the city opened up before us, with sweeping views that made the torture (for me at least) well worthwhile. We spent some time on the lookout platform, enjoying the fresh air, the quiet moments between breaths, and the excitement of seeing Taipei from above.
Next stop was Taipei 101 where we headed up to the observation deck, where the city stretched endlessly in every direction. Completed in 2004, Taipei 101 was once the tallest building in the world and was designed to withstand earthquakes and typhoons, reflecting Taiwan’s resilience and innovation. Standing together, we soaked in the view, feeling both tiny and amazed.
We enjoyed our ‘last supper’ in Taipei at the Roahe Street Night Market which was bustling with people, not far from our accommodation.
Day Nine – Taipei: Hot Springs and Coastal Calm
Today was meant to be a shopping day, before heading to the airport. Naturally, Sarah found another couple of things to do. She is amazing at planning, researching and getting the most out of holidays in new and exotic locations. That left hardly any time for shopping and barely a present to take home. Our time in Taipei was brief but memorable.
One of the highlights of the last day was a visit to the hot springs at Beitou—a soothing, almost surreal experience. There’s something magical about slipping your hands into the mineral-rich water and feeling your skin soften almost instantly. We also loved sitting on the sandstone benches, where a gentle warmth rises up through the stone and wraps around you like a warm rug. It was a cold, wet day, which somehow made it all the more special..
We also visited Tamsui, where the river meets the sea. It’s a popular destination, and it was easy to see why. The combination of waterfront views, the scent of street food – we tried the local fish and chips, lively streets, and a relaxed atmosphere made it the perfect place to wander and reflect on our journey.
A Holiday to Remember
Tamsui was the last place we visited before making our way back to the airport to head home to Australia.
What made this trip truly special wasn’t just the places we visited, but the people we shared them with. Jolin’s generosity, warmth, and thoughtfulness turned a holiday into something far more meaningful. Travelling with Sarah made it even more precious time together, away from the distractions of daily life, discovering new places side by side.
And while we may have said “no” to stinky tofu this time… who knows what we’ll try on our next visit?
Photos: Thanks so much to Sarah and Jolin for taking hundreds of photos. Unfortunatley I only have enough space for four in this blog.
